The Craftsman Style Home–History, Features and Paint Colors

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Introduction

Walk through almost any older neighborhood in America and chances are you’ll spot a Craftsman style home. With its low, sloping roof, wide front porch, and earthy colors, the Craftsman has become one of the most beloved and recognizable American house styles.

But where did this style come from? Why did it become so popular in the early 20th century? And, as a paint company, we can’t ignore the obvious: what paint colors really bring out the best in a Craftsman home?

Let’s take a look at the history of the Craftsman style, how to identify one, and the timeless color palettes that make these homes come alive.

The Roots: Arts and Crafts in England

The story begins in England in the mid-1800s with the Arts and Crafts Movement. At the time, the Industrial Revolution was flooding homes with mass-produced goods. Furniture was heavily ornamented, machine-stamped, and often cheaply made to mimic luxury pieces.

Not everyone loved that look. Designer William Morris and other reformers argued for a return to honest, handcrafted quality. They believed that the objects in our homes should be useful, beautiful, and connected to nature. Morris himself became famous for wallpaper and textile designs filled with flowing vines, flowers, and birds—patterns still made today.

By the late 19th century, the movement had crossed the Atlantic and was ready to reshape American homes.

The American Take: A Style for the People

In the United States, Arts and Crafts ideals evolved into what we call the Craftsman style.

Furniture maker Gustav Stickley helped popularize the look through his magazine The Craftsman (1901–1916), which featured not just furniture but also house plans that ordinary families could build.

At the same time, Sears, Roebuck & Co. began selling kit homes (1908–1942). These “Modern Homes” came in many styles—Colonial, Tudor, Four Square—but the bungalow form, often with Craftsman details, was especially popular. Kits arrived by railcar with precut lumber, nails, shingles, and everything needed to build the house.

And here’s a quick aside: Sears also sold Craftsman tools, starting in 1927. But the name is just a coincidence—the tool line had nothing to do with Craftsman homes. Still, it’s a quirky bit of history that Sears sold both Craftsman-style houses and Craftsman-brand wrenches in the same catalog!

The result was accessibility. Craftsman homes weren’t just for the wealthy; they were practical, affordable, and within reach for the growing middle class.

The Range: From Bungalows to “Ultimate Bungalows”

Most Craftsman homes were modest bungalows—one or one-and-a-half stories, simple, and practical.

But architects Charles and Henry Greene in Pasadena, California, elevated the style to high art with what became known as the “Ultimate Bungalows.” The most famous example is the Gamble House (1908), built for the Gamble family of Procter & Gamble. It’s filled with rich wood interiors, Japanese-inspired details, and custom furniture designed to match the architecture.

The Greenes also designed the Blackburn House, the Thorsen House, and others. Each blended architecture, furniture, and landscape into a seamless work of art.

So on one end of the spectrum you had the affordable Sears kit bungalow, and on the other, the Ultimate Bungalows—bespoke masterpieces for wealthy clients. Both fall under the Craftsman umbrella, which is part of the style’s richness.

Listen to Our Podcast on Craftsman Homes

How to Spot a Craftsman Style Home

A few telltale features help you recognize a Craftsman style home:

  • Low-pitched gable roof with wide eaves
  • Exposed rafters and decorative brackets
  • Deep front porch supported by square or tapered columns on stone or brick bases
  • Natural materials—wood, stone, brick, sometimes stucco
  • Grouped windows, often double-hung with multiple panes on top
  • Built-in features like bookcases, benches, or cabinets
  • Central fireplace, usually stone or brick
  • Earthy color palette—browns, greens, muted golds, and grays

Together, these features give Craftsman homes their warm, grounded feel.

Why the Craftsman Style Home Caught On

Craftsman homes became wildly popular between 1905 and the 1930s for three main reasons:

  1. Practicality: The bungalow was affordable, comfortable, and well-suited to the middle class.
  2. Philosophy: In an increasingly industrial and impersonal world, Craftsman homes represented authenticity, family, community, and a connection to nature.
  3. Beauty: Natural materials, earthy colors, and handcrafted details gave these homes a warmth that Victorian houses sometimes lacked.

Decline and Legacy

By the 1930s, Craftsman homes had begun to fade in popularity. The Great Depression slowed building, and new styles like Colonial Revival, Tudor, and Art Deco began to dominate.

But Craftsman homes never truly disappeared. Today, neighborhoods filled with these bungalows are among the most sought-after in America. Their scale, warmth, and timeless appeal continue to resonate, and their philosophy—simplicity, honesty, and connection to nature—feels just as relevant in our own industrial, digital age.

Paint Colors in the Craftsman Style Home

Now let’s talk about paint—because color is a big part of what makes Craftsman homes so distinctive.

Traditionally, Craftsman homes were painted in earthy tones drawn from nature: greens, browns, russets, muted yellows, and soft grays. Trim often contrasted in a darker shade to highlight beams, brackets, and porch columns. Accent colors were used sparingly but dramatically on front doors or window sashes.

Here are some Benjamin Moore colors that echo the Craftsman palette:

Exteriors (body):

Trim:

Accents (doors, brackets):

Interiors:

Staying True—or Branching Out

Of course, color is always subjective. There’s no rule that says you must paint a Craftsman home in these shades. Bright whites, modern grays, or even unexpected pastels can work if handled thoughtfully. But here’s the challenge: choosing colors that fight against your home’s architecture can sometimes give you an uphill struggle. The space may never feel fully grounded or cohesive.

When you lean into your home’s architectural style—even loosely—you usually find the house feels “right.” Work against it, and sometimes the contrast sings… but other times, it just feels off.

That’s where we can help. At RepcoLite, our experts can guide you through choosing colors that not only look good on a chip but also make sense for your home’s design—whether you live in a Craftsman, Colonial, Ranch, or anything in between.

Conclusion

So the next time you walk down a street and see a house with a broad front porch, exposed rafters, and earthy colors, you’ll know you’re looking at a Craftsman style home. More than just architecture, it’s a piece of history—a design that spoke to America’s desire for authenticity, family, and a home that truly felt alive.

Choosing Paint for West-Facing Rooms

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Learn how choosing paint for west-facing rooms can be tricky. Discover colors that work with changing light, not against it.

Over the last few weeks on our podcast, Home in Progress, we’ve been diving into one of the most overlooked aspects of color selection: the direction your room faces. And one of the most surprising lessons I’ve learned over the years—both on the radio and behind the counter at RepcoLite—is how often we forget to think about it.

I grew up in a house where painting was a regular event. My mom loved color, and it wasn’t uncommon to come home from school to find an entirely new color scheme in the living room—or the kitchen, or the hallway. But in all that time, I never once heard her talk about room exposure. It just wasn’t something most people thought about.

Even when I started helping customers at RepcoLite, I’d ask all kinds of important questions: What color is the floor? Is there carpet or hardwood? What’s your furniture like? How much natural light is in the room? But somehow, I rarely—if ever—asked what direction the room faced.

So over the last few episodes of the show—and now, here in this post—we’re making up for lost time. We’ve already covered north-facing rooms (with their cool, flat light), south-facing rooms (bright and sunny all day long), and east-facing rooms (which shift from warm morning light to cool shadows). And now, we’re wrapping things up by talking about the trickiest of them all: west-facing rooms.

If your wall color ever looks beautiful at noon and weirdly orange or pink by five o’clock, this post is for you. Choosing paint for west-facing rooms requires a different approach—but with the right strategy, you can work with the light instead of fighting it.

Western Light is a Shape-Shifter

Here’s what makes choosing paint for west-facing rooms such a challenge: the light changes dramatically throughout the day.

In the morning, the room can feel dim, flat, and even cold. The sun’s on the opposite side of the house, so shadows linger. But by late afternoon—especially during golden hour—the light pours in, and it’s full of rich, warm, peachy tones. Sometimes it’s beautiful. Other times, it makes your neutral beige look downright orange.

That soft gray you loved at breakfast? It might suddenly flash pink. That gentle taupe? Now it’s a rusty brown. It’s a lighting roller coaster—and your paint color rides it all day.

Morning People vs. Afternoon People

The first step in choosing paint for west-facing rooms is figuring out when you use the space most. Because honestly, you can’t always find a color that looks perfect in every lighting condition. So prioritize the part of the day that matters most to you.

If You Use the Room in the Morning…

In the morning, west-facing rooms are at their coolest and dimmest. If that’s when you’re sipping coffee or getting ready for the day, you may want to choose a color that warms things up.

That doesn’t mean going full terracotta. Instead, think soft taupes, gentle warm grays, or warm greiges. These tones can bring a little life to the space without clashing later in the day when the sun swings around.

If you prefer cooler colors, go for more saturated versions that still feel energetic—muted blues, greens, or violets with a bit of richness.

Also, your lighting matters. A soft white LED bulb (in the 2700K–3000K range) can fill the morning shadows with a cozy glow. Avoid daylight bulbs here—they can be too stark and make the room feel even colder in the early hours.

If You Use the Room in the Afternoon…

This is when west-facing rooms shine—literally. The sunlight is strong and full of warmth. If you’re relaxing, working, or entertaining in this space after 2 p.m., you’ll want to temper the intensity of that glow.

Cooler colors are a great counterbalance: think blues, soft greens, lavenders, and cool whites. They’ll help keep the room feeling fresh rather than overheated.

That doesn’t mean warm tones are off limits. But stick with earthier, muted versions—colors that lean warm but don’t scream “sunset.” Think putty, mauve, or dusty rose.

How to Work With the Light (Not Against It)

Choosing paint for west-facing rooms is all about embracing the light and working with it. You can’t control the sun, but you can control how your paint responds to it.

Here’s how:

  • In the morning, simulate warmth with lighting. Stick to bulbs in the 2700–3000K range.
  • In the afternoon, don’t block the sunlight—filter it. Use sheer curtains or light-filtering shades to soften the glow without plunging the room into darkness.
  • Always sample colors at different times of day. Look at them in both natural and artificial light. What looks gorgeous at 10 a.m. might look bizarre at 6 p.m.

And remember: It’s not about finding the “perfect” color—it’s about finding the color that looks best when you actually use the space.

Benjamin Moore Color Recommendations

Need some starting points? Here are some favorites that work beautifully in west-facing rooms, depending on your needs:

To Cool Down the Afternoon Glow:

  • Moonshine – A barely-there gray with cool undertones
  • Silver Chain – A medium gray that holds its own in strong light
  • White Wisp or White Heron – Crisp, cool whites that resist yellowing

To Warm Up a Morning Chill:

  • Edgecomb Gray – Soft and warm, but not too golden
  • Pale Oak – Creamy and gentle, great for shaded rooms
  • Hazy Skies – A complex neutral that walks the warm-cool line

For Bolder Statements:

  • Silvery Blue or Catalina Blue – Fresh and calming in afternoon light
  • Kasbah – A rich, grounded blue that absorbs warmth beautifully

And for trim and ceilings? Chantilly Lace is a crisp, clean white that plays nicely with just about any color.

Final Thoughts

West-facing rooms may be moody, but that’s part of their charm. With the right colors and a little bit of planning, they can become some of the most dramatic and dynamic spaces in your home.

So when it comes to choosing paint for west-facing rooms, remember this:

  • Pay attention to when you use the space.
  • Balance the natural light with your color choices.
  • Embrace the change—don’t fight it.

And if you need help, you know where to find us. RepcoLite’s team of experts is always here to help you turn your vision into reality. We’ll guide you through the lighting, the samples, and the final selection—so your west-facing room shines at any time of day.

Choosing Paint Colors for East Facing Rooms

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When it comes to choosing paint colors for east-facing rooms, things can get a little tricky. These spaces change personality throughout the day, thanks to shifting sunlight—from warm and welcoming at dawn to cool and shadowed by late afternoon. Unlike north- or south-facing rooms, where light quality remains fairly consistent, east-facing rooms demand a little more planning. But don’t worry—we’ll walk you through how to find a color that stays beautiful from sunrise to sunset.

The Light in East-Facing Rooms: A Moving Target

East-facing windows welcome soft, fresh light in the morning. It’s a slightly warm glow—gentle and cheerful—that makes creamy whites, soft yellows, and delicate pastels come to life. But by mid-morning, that golden glow fades fast. The light shifts to a brighter, more neutral tone that can wash out delicate colors and leave your room feeling stark or flat.

And then there’s the afternoon. Once the sun moves to the opposite side of the house, your east-facing room loses direct light. Shadows deepen, and the space takes on a cooler, gray-blue cast. Colors that felt fresh in the morning can turn muddy or cold by dinnertime.

This shift is why choosing paint colors for east-facing rooms can be such a challenge. A color that looked perfect in one light might disappoint you just hours later.

When Do You Use the Room?

The first step in picking the right color is deciding when you actually use the room most. Morning people? Embrace that soft sunrise glow with creamy whites, warm neutrals, or even pale greens and blue-greens that feel fresh and balanced early in the day.

But if your time in the space is more afternoon or evening-based—say for a den or family room—you’ll need richer, more saturated colors to avoid the space feeling washed out or chilly. Look for colors that can hold their own in cooler, shadowy light.

Use the room throughout the day? Choose the color you love the most during your peak time—and make peace with how it shifts later. As long as it stays within your comfort zone, you’re on the right track.

Don’t Forget the Light Bulbs

When that afternoon light fades, your artificial lighting takes over. And it can make or break your paint color. A warm white bulb (around 2700–3000K) helps counteract that cool, shadowy light with a cozy, inviting tone. Daylight bulbs might sound good, but they often mimic harsh noonday sun—too stark for a room already leaning cool. So warm it up with soft bulbs, and consider layering light sources for the best effect.

Color Recommendations That Work

Let’s get specific. If you’re aiming for an airy, fresh feel, here are some Benjamin Moore colors that shine in an east-facing space:

  • White Dove (OC-17): A soft, creamy white with just enough warmth.
  • Simply White (OC-117): Cheerful, clean, and slightly yellow—perfect for mornings.
  • Navajo White (OC-95): Deeper warmth without getting muddy.

Prefer neutrals?

  • Classic Gray (OC-23): Soft and warm—nearly an off-white in strong light.
  • Balboa Mist (OC-27): A gentle violet-pink undertone keeps it elegant.
  • Revere Pewter (HC-172): A balanced greige that works with the room’s shifting tone.

Looking for dependable go-to’s?

  • Bleeker Beige (HC-80): Warm yellow undertones hold up from morning to evening.
  • Wind’s Breath (OC-24): Light, sandy, and never cold.
  • Pleasant Pink (2094-60): This one is a bit of a stretch, but it’s a subtle blush that feels warm, and won’t feel overly pink in an East-facing space.

Want a little color? Go for it!

  • Ocean Air (2123‑50): A pale blue-green that’s crisp in the morning, serene later.
  • Spring Meadow (486): Soft green that stays grounded and natural.

Avoid strong blues and purples—they tend to feel too cold by late afternoon.

Trim, Ceilings, and Finishing Touches

Trim and ceilings matter more than people realize. A crisp white like Chantilly Lace (OC‑65) on the ceiling and trim can help reflect light and lift the space, especially in the dimmer afternoon hours. Use a satin or semi-gloss finish to bounce that light around even more.

The Bottom Line

When it comes to choosing paint colors for east-facing rooms, the key is awareness. These spaces shift. There’s no one-size-fits-all color—but if you test your options in different lighting, consider your usage patterns, and lean slightly warm, you’ll land on a color that works.

And if you’re still not sure? Stop into any RepcoLite location and let us help you!

Best Colors for South-Facing Rooms

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South-Facing Rooms: The Natural Light Jackpot

If you’ve got a south-facing room in your home—congratulations! You’ve won the natural light lottery. These spaces get consistent, warm sunlight all day long. The light glides in with energy and brightness, warming up your space and making most paint colors look great.

But here’s the twist: just because most colors look good in southern light doesn’t mean all of them are the right choice for your room. That beautiful sunlight is dynamic—it changes throughout the day, and it can drastically affect how your paint looks from morning to night.

Understanding Southern Light

Southern exposure brings warm, golden light during the morning and late afternoon, but midday sunlight can become harsh and overpowering. That intensity can wash out light colors or make saturated ones feel overwhelming.

So, choosing paint colors for a south-facing room is less about what’s trendy and more about what mood you want to create. Do you want the space to feel restful, energetic, cozy, fresh—or maybe a bit playful? Let’s break it down by vibe.

1. Want a Restful, Relaxing Space? Go Cool and Calm

To counterbalance the warmth of the southern sun, lean into cool-toned colors:

  • Soft blue-grays
  • Pale lavenders
  • Dusty greens

These shades help settle a space and create a soothing retreat. Try:

Perfect for reading nooks, bedrooms, or quiet retreats.

2. Looking for Energy and Warmth? Embrace Saturated Color

If you’re designing a space for lively gatherings—family dinners, game nights, or social events—lean into that southern light with:

  • Buttery yellows
  • Coral peaches
  • Golden tans
  • Earthy clay tones

These bounce the light around and energize the space. Just be careful—too much brightness, especially with lots of windows, can tip into lava lamp territory. Always test your samples first.

3. Want Cozy and Comfortable? Think Deep and Moody

To cozy up a bright, sun-filled room, try medium to dark shades in cool undertones:

  • Smoky navy blues
  • Charcoal with blue or green hues
  • Muted deep greens

Great options include:

These colors absorb some of the sunlight, making the room feel intimate, grounded, and peaceful.

4. Going for Light, Airy, and Clean? Choose Wisely with Whites

Southern light makes light colors glow—but it can also exaggerate warm tones. If you want an airy, open feel:

  • Choose cool whites with a hint of blue or gray: White Diamond or Decorator’s White
  • Avoid too-warm whites, which might read yellow or peachy by midafternoon

Creamy whites and soft greiges can work beautifully—but make sure they don’t pick up too much of the sun’s warmth if that’s not your goal.

5. Feeling Playful? Go Bold with Whimsy

South-facing rooms are perfect for more expressive, unexpected choices:

  • Sea-glass aquas
  • Vintage rose pinks
  • Chalky lilacs
  • Muted teals

These colors might feel heavy or dreary in a darker room—but in bright southern light, they come alive.

What About the Seasons? Light Isn’t Static

The angle and color of southern sunlight shift with the seasons. In winter, the light is cooler and sharper. In summer, it’s stronger and golden. That means:

  • A gray that looked perfect in January may read greenish in July
  • A neutral cream might suddenly look peachy come summer

Sampling is essential.
Look at paint colors in the morning, afternoon, and evening—and ideally across a few days. But don’t stress about testing across all four seasons. Just be aware of the changes.

Trim and Ceiling Tips: Don’t Forget the Details

A classic white like Chantilly Lace is a great go-to for trim and ceilings. It’s neutral and crisp—but here’s the thing: glossy finishes can reflect a lot of that bright sunlight, creating glare. For a more comfortable look:

  • Use eggshell or matte finishes on trim and ceilings
  • These soften the reflection and add richness to the space

Final Thoughts: Every Room Is Unique

Not all south-facing rooms are created equal. Some get flooded with direct sunlight, while others are filtered through porches, trees, or overhangs. Here’s a good rule of thumb:

The more light a room gets, the more depth your color can have.
Lighter shades may wash out at peak sun, while medium and deep tones hold their character better.

And always—always—sample your colors. Live with them. See how they behave throughout the day. Because what looks perfect at 8 a.m. might feel like too much at 2 p.m.

Ready to Start? We’re Here to Help

South-facing rooms are full of potential—and with a little planning, they can be stunning. Visit your nearest RepcoLite Paints location, and we’ll help you find the perfect color. We carry Benjamin Moore products and can match any vibe you’re going for.

Have questions? Stop in and chat with our color experts. We’ll help you make your space feel exactly the way you want it to.

How to Paint a Ceiling Like a Pro: A Complete DIY Guide

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If you’re wondering how to paint a ceiling, you’re not alone. It’s one of the most commonly skipped steps in a DIY room makeover because it feels overwhelming. You’re working overhead, dealing with drips, and worried about lap marks or roller lines. But here’s the truth: a freshly painted ceiling can completely transform a room—making it feel brighter, cleaner, and more finished.

Many homeowners repaint walls without touching the ceiling, only to realize afterward how dingy it looks in contrast. Don’t fall into that trap—give your ceiling a chance to shine, too.

Step 1: Clear the Room and Protect Your Floors

Start by removing as much furniture as possible. Cover what remains with plastic sheeting or drop cloths. Protect your floors using canvas drop cloths, plastic, or masking paper. RepcoLite offers options if you’re unsure what’s best.

Step 2: Prep the Room and the Ceiling

Use painter’s tape to protect fixtures, trim, and anything else that shouldn’t be painted. Make sure your lighting is bright enough to catch missed spots. Clean the ceiling thoroughly—dust, cobwebs, and grease can affect paint adhesion. If you have water stains, spot-prime those areas with a stain-blocking primer.

Step 3: Choose the Right Paint

Most professionals recommend flat ceiling paint because it hides imperfections and keeps reflections to a minimum. Benjamin Moore’s Waterborne Ceiling Paint is ideal—it stays ultra-flat even when tinted. If you’re budget-conscious, consider Super Hide or Final Touch, both great options available at RepcoLite. Check out these inspiring ceilings to spark your creativity.

Step 4: Select the Right Tools

Use a roller with a 3/8″ to 1/2″ nap for smooth ceilings. For textured surfaces, go up to 3/4″. An extension pole will save your back and help you maintain a consistent stroke.

Step 5: Cut In First

Before rolling, use a brush to cut in around the edges—2 to 3 inches from the walls. This keeps you from having to roll too close and risk splashing paint onto the walls.

Step 6: Roll It On

You’ve got two main methods:

  1. Work in 4-by-4-foot sections, overlapping as you go.

  2. Roll the entire length of the ceiling in straight lines, overlapping slightly and always maintaining a wet edge.

Roll toward the main light source to minimize visible imperfections. For longer ceilings, method one may give you better results.

Step 7: Keep a Steady Pace

Don’t rush, but don’t dawdle either. If the paint dries too quickly, you’ll see lap marks. Use a thick enough roller cover to carry a good amount of paint, and consider turning down the room temperature slightly to slow drying time.

Step 8: Apply a Second Coat (If Needed)

If the ceiling’s original color was dark or uneven, or if coverage isn’t perfect after the first coat, wait until it’s completely dry and then apply a second.

Step 9: Final Touches

Remove painter’s tape while the paint is still a little wet for cleaner lines. Then, step back and enjoy the clean, bright new look of your ceiling.

Pro Tips

  • Don’t overload your roller. Drips and splatters are a sign of too much paint.

  • Keep your roller flat and apply even pressure.

  • Don’t obsess over perfection—most people aren’t scrutinizing your ceiling.

  • Always use high-quality paint. It saves time, effort, and money in the long run.

Painting your ceiling might not be the most exciting project, but it’s one of the most rewarding. Done right, it can make your entire room feel brand new. And if you ever get stuck or have questions, the team at RepcoLite is here to help.

8 Tips to Eliminate Orbital Sander Swirls

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Swirl marks—sometimes called “pig tails”—are a common frustration when using an orbital sander. They might not seem like a big deal when you’re sanding, but they can stand out dramatically once you apply stain or paint. Even painted surfaces aren’t immune; those faint circular marks can sometimes show through, undermining all your hard work. Fortunately, swirl marks are avoidable if you understand the proper techniques. Here are 8 tips to eliminate orbital sander swirls—whether you’re using a high-end model like the Festool sanders we carry at RepcoLite or a standard DIY-friendly version.

1. Start Right

Always place the sander flat on the surface before turning it on. Starting the sander while it’s in the air and then setting it down at full speed can cause it to skip, gouge, or leave swirl marks.

2. Use a Slow, Steady Speed

Avoid zipping back and forth too quickly. Orbital sanders are designed for slow, controlled movement—about 1 inch per second is ideal. This gives the sander time to work evenly across the surface.

3. Keep the Sander Flat

Tilting the sander—even slightly—can cause the leading edge to dig in, creating swirls or gouges. Keep the sander flat to allow the full sanding disc to work evenly.

4. Use Light, Even Pressure

Let the sander do the work. Applying too much pressure slows the motor and increases your chances of swirl marks. If you hear the sander bog down, ease up.

5. Work Through the Grits

Don’t skip steps in your sanding progression. Each grit removes the scratches from the previous one:

  • Start with 80 or 100 grit
  • Move to 120 grit
  • Then 150 grit
  • Then 180 grit
  • Finish with 220 grit

If you’re staining, avoid going past 220 grit, as it may prevent proper stain absorption.

6. Use Dust Extraction and Clean Often

Fine sanding dust can get trapped between the disc and the surface, acting like rogue grit and causing scratches. Use a sander with dust collection, and clean between grits:

  • Vacuum the surface
  • Use compressed air
  • Brush off any remaining dust

7. Stop Correctly

Just like starting, stopping matters. Never turn off the sander while it’s still touching the surface. Instead, lift it off, then power it down. This avoids sudden stops that can leave swirl marks behind.

8. Do a Final Check Before Finishing

Before applying stain or paint, do a quick inspection:

  • Wipe the surface with mineral spirits to reveal hidden swirl marks
  • Or use an LED flashlight at a low angle to spot imperfections

Taking a minute for this final check can save you hours of frustration later.

8 Tips for Success

Follow those 8 tips to eliminate orbital sander swirls and you’ll soon be sanding like a pro!