EP72: Common Carpet Spills Removed, Paint Brushes Restored, Tannin Stains Blocked!

Today we sit down and talk carpet cleaning with the experts at Fibercare Carpet and Rug Cleaning in Jenison. It’s a fun interview and they fill us in on how to clean wine, blood, urine and all kinds of other common spills out of our carpets! Formulas and cleaning instructions they discuss on air are included below in the notes!

Also, a stiff paint brush has almost no practical use at all! Fortunately, there’s often a way to restore an old brush to “like new” quality!

Finally, painting bare wood (and sometimes even varnished wood) can result in brown or yellow stains bleeding through your finish paint. It’s frustrating and often confusing. But we’ve got the answers here!

Listen here:

SHOW NOTES

SEGMENTS 1 and 2: CARPET CLEANING

Information on Spot Cleaning

*Always start with blotting the excess liquid & use a rounded spoon to scrape up semi-solids, being careful not to rub the yarns.

Pet Urine, Feces, & Vomit

  • Apply several applications of water
  • Then apply a solution of one-part white vinegar & one-part water
  • Blot excess liquid & dry rapidly
  • If spot remains, apply a detergent solution & blot
  • Reapply the vinegar solution, leaving it on the spot for about 15 minutes
  • Blot excess liquid & dry rapidly

Red Wine & Blood

  • Apply a detergent solution
  • Rinse with several applications of water
  • Apply 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (Just be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to make sure there is no color loss in the carpet).

Solutions

  • Detergent Solution
    • Mix ¼ teaspoon of a clear (non-bleach, non-lanolin, no optical brighteners) dishwashing liquid with 1 cup warm water.
    • Allow the detergent solution to remain on the affected area for 10 to 15     minutes to lift the stain.
    • It may be necessary to rinse with warm     water several times to completely remove residues.

*Never use an automatic dishwasher detergent because many contain bleaching solutions that can destroy the carpet color & damage fibers.

*Never use a laundry detergent of any type, because laundry detergents may contain optical brighteners (fluorescent dyes) that dye the fiber.

  • Warm  Water Rinse
    • Warm water should be used in most cases for rinsing.
  • White Vinegar Solution
    • Mix 1 cup white vinegar with 1 cup water.

*NOTE: All dry spills should be scraped up with a blunt object and then vacuumed to lift and remove as much of the remaining substance as possible. Pouring any liquid onto a dry spill can create additional problems.

SEGMENT 3: BRUSH RESTORATION

  • Vinegar
    • Recommended that you heat it up, but don’t boil it!
    • Pour it into a disposable foil baking tray
    • Soak brush
    • May need to leave the brush overnight (as the vinegar becomes less effective as it cools).
    • Rinse well afterward with soap and water!
    • Wrap in a paper towel or the brush sleeve and store!
    • Works for ANY type of bristle
  • Roller and Brush Cleaner
    • Available for purchase at RepcoLite and Port City Paints
    • Pour solvent into a solvent-resistant container
    • Soak brush overnight
    • Rinse well afterward with soap and water
    • Wrap in a paper towel or the brush sleeve and store!
    • Works beautifully for China Bristle brushes (and nylons)
    • NOT for most synthetics!

SEGMENT 4: DEALING WITH TANNIN STAINS

  • When painting or priming bare wood, we ALWAYS recommend a stain blocking primer.
  • Here are some options:
    • White Pigmented Shellac
    • Prime-Lock Plus (from Insl-X)
    • Odorless Alkyd Primer (from Insl-X)
    • Fresh Start All Purpose Alkyd Primer (from Benjamin Moore)
  • When painting over stained and varnished wood, a stain blocking primer is usually not necessary.
  • We recommend:
    • STIX primer (from Insl-X)
  • However, when painting over Oak cabinets — even if they’ve been stained and varnished — we recommend using a stain blocker, just to be safe!
    • White Pigmented Shellac
    • Prime-Lock Plus (from Insl-X)

Flux Nexometers and Water Stains

flatfoot-76564_1920no_attribution_necessaryWell, I’ve got a flat tire.  Right now.  In fact, I’m writing this from the lobby of the tire repair shop.  And of course, to be perfectly honest, I’m kind of half-expecting someone to walk over to tell me, “Sir, the tire’s all fixed and ready to go, but we decided to take a look around and noticed that that motor’s leaking all kinds of Chromascopic oils and your Magnesium Regulator is completely empty.  On top of all that, your Obstingent Flux Nexometer is completely shot.”  (I’m not a car person, so as intelligent as I sound, I just want you to know that I’m making up names…)

Anyway, the point is, I’m half-expecting someone to tell me about all that bad stuff and then follow it up with this:  “Now, the good news is that we can do all that.  In fact, Obstingent Flux Nexometers are our specialty.  The bad news, for you, is that all told, it’s probably going to run somewhere between $400 and $7000 dollars.  We’ll know more when we get under the hood….”

Yeah, I’m half-expecting that to happen–not because I’m a pessimist, but because I’m a realist.  I know how my life works.  And that Nexometer thing wouldn’t surprise me at all.

Anyway, the point is this:  I’m sitting in the lobby,  thinking about a good way to spend my time and I decided to write a blog entry for RepcoLite.

But what to write about?  Hmmmmm.  My eyes drifted around the room and settled on some very noticeable water stains in the ceiling. And suddenly, I had a topic.

These water stains are everywhere.  Homes have them, businesses have them, churches have them.  And often, when folks find them in their place of business or in their basement, they’re confused as to how best to repair them and get their ceilings looking good again.  And while I don’t have a clue how to go about locating, much less changing an Obstingent Nexometer, I do know a thing or two about paint.

So, if  you’ve got water stains on your ceiling or on some ceiling tiles, here’s what you need to do to get things looking good again:

  • First off, you need to fix the source of the problem.  This is absolutely a water_stainno-brainer, but believe me, people forget this all the time.  Repainting and sealing your water stains on the ceiling will be an exercise in futility if you don’t first find the source of the problem and repair it.  Get a roofer out to your home if necessary.  Tighten your plumbing connections.  Install some heat tapes on your roof if the leaks are from ice backup.  Whatever you need to do, find the source of the leak and fix it.
  • Secondly, after you’ve fixed the source of the water problem, now it’s time to tackle the issue from a paint perspective.  And the place to start, is with a good primer.  We recommend Zinsser’s BIN Stain Blocking Primer.  It’s a little expensive, but it works.  Everytime.  Period.  And that makes it worth it. At any rate, pick up a quart or a pint or whatever and spot prime all those rusty areas.
  • Once the rust spots are primed, it’s just a matter of painting your ceiling.  Don’t waste your time trying to save time by touching up just those spots–that never works and you’ll end up repainting the ceiling anyway.  So skip the “time-saving step” and go straight to a full paint job of your ceiling.  And for this, we recommend you use a good, waterbased ceiling paint in a finish of your choosing.

And that’s it.  That’s all that’s necessary to painting over rusty water spots on your ceilings–whether your ceilings are plaster, drywall or even those drop-ceiling tiles.  It’s a quick project and it will make a huge improvement in the look of your home or your business.

*** UPDATE ***

Just after I finished the post, the gentleman came out to tell me that my tire was fixed.  When I got to the counter, he told me “We took a look at everything else and noticed that your brakes are failing.  You should probably get it in soon and we’ll get them fixed up.”

I asked him, “Uhhh, how much does that typically run?”  I tried to be cool and hip–to act like money didn’t matter and that I was just asking because I like to know things, but my voice broke and I sounded like I was starting to cry.

He looked up–startled–and quickly said, “Oh, it could be anywhere from $150 to $600.  We won’t know until we start looking.”

I drove away a little depressed, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that I should just be happy that my Obstingent Flux Nexometer is still working.

I Enjoy Long Walks, Donating Blood and Stain-Blocking Primers

bigstock-closeup-of-a-blood-bag-with-a--92288108_smallerThere’s nothing more important at the beginning of a relationship–whether it’s a personal relationship or a professional one–whether it’s a girl you’re meeting for the first time . . . or a potential employer your interviewing with, or even a resume your creating, or a job application you’re filling out–nothing’s more important at the start of any potential relationship than making a good first impression–you know, getting off on the right foot.

And yet, even though it’s absolutely critical to start well . . . so many times we bomb out.  So many times, we just say the wrong things . . . we do the wrong things . . . we write the wrong things.  For example, I found a number of true, real-life mistakes people actually wrote down on their  job applications.

Yeah, under the category of personal interests . . . on a job application . . . somebody wrote:  “I enjoy donating blood and have managed 14 Gallons so far.”  You probably like long walks on the beach and long, meaningful conversations, too.  I mean really, who writes that down?  It’s creepy?  14 gallons of blood.  So far?  I mean, I guess that implies real commitment . . . but think about it . . . he never says it’s his own blood he’s donating . . . .   Makes you wonder.

Or, there are these–under the category of REASONS I LEFT MY LAST JOB:  Number 1:  “I left my last job because the company made me a scapegoat – just like my three previous employers.”  Yeah . . . no deep-rooted issues bubbling just under the surface there . . . .

Or, number 2:  “I left my last job because they insisted that all employees get to work by 8:45 every morning and I couldn’t work under those conditions.”  Yes, those 8:45 am start-times are grueling.  I suppose you probably had to limit yourself to 1 hour lunches, too?

Or there’s this one:  Number 3:  “I left my last job because responsibility makes me nervous.”   Again, who writes stuff like that down?  And really, what job doesn’t involve at least some responsibility?  What employer would advertise:  Great starting pay, great benefits and best of all . . . job requires no responsibility at all.  Heck, you don’t even need to wear pants most of the time if you don’t want to?”  Yeah . . . every job requires at least some responsibility . . . and even if there is one out there that doesn’t, chances are no employer likes to think of it that way.

Anyway, I could go on and on–and I will in another post because these are so good–but the point I want to make today is that none of these people made a good first impression.  They didn’t get off on the right foot.  They crashed and burned right out of the gates.  They never got running . . . they never had the chance to  hit their stride . . . .  They tripped over their shoelaces the minute the race started and that was it.  They were out.  The guy giving all the blood probably never got to an interview . . . at least not with the employers, maybe with the police . . . but certainly not for the job he was hoping for.

Anyway, starting on the right foot is critical to success.  Absolutely critical.  And it’s not just that way in the search for a job . . . it’s also that way in pretty much anything else we do.  And since my line of work involves paint . . . I’ll apply it to that.

See, one of the big things right now sweeping through the paint world . . . thanks to some very effective ads . . . is the notion that you don’t need primer anymore.  Just go out and buy that special paint that primes and paints all in one and you can skip a whole step.

Yeah, it sounds great . . . and, in some cases, it’s true–though we’ll talk more about that another time.  But in other cases, if you follow their advice and skip the primer, you’re going to find yourself getting off on the same wrong foot that all those people we just talked about did.  You’re project will crash and burn before you even got into your stride.

See, there are certain situations that NEED a primer.  One of those–today’s focus–involves stains that might be on your walls.  And these stains could be anything from ink to markers, to crayons to grease.  Or, maybe they’re stains where water leaked in once–you know those brown, yellow rings–or maybe it’s a smoke stain.   And, honestly, the stains don’t have to be visible.  It could be that your walls stink.  Literally.  Charred wood, kitchen odors, even the overpowering smell from years of cigarette smoking.

All of those stains–in fact, most stains on your walls–are water-based or water-soluble stains.  If you topcoat them with a water-based paint or primer . . . that stain–or the stink–that stain is going to bleed right through.  It may take a few days, a few months, or it could happen within a few minutes, but however long it takes, those stains will bleed through.

In order to prevent that from happening, you need to make sure you use a very specific stain-blocking primer.  We’ve got a couple different ones at RepcoLite that will seal these trouble spots in with one coat.  Remember that.  If you’re trying to coat over any unusual stain or mark or smell . . . stop in at RepcoLite and explain to us what you’re seeing.  Don’t screw up your project right from the beginning.  Avoid the mistakes and start strong.  And seriously . . . watch out for that 14 gallon blood donor guy . . . he’s probably really pale and tired . . . but he may be dangerous.