Create a Live Edge River Table with Mira-Poxy


  • Butter Knife
  • Small Wire Brush
  • Hair Dryer
  • Heat Gun
  • Small Flexible Scraper
  • Level
  • Drill and Wire Wheel


  • Epoxy
  • Mixing Cups (10)
  • Stir Sticks
  • Pipettes or disposable eye droppers
  • Xylene
  • Brushes
  • Gloves
  • Blue Tape
  • Paste Wax
  • Rags

Project Guide


  • Remove bark with a non-serrated butter knife, palette knife, etc. DO NOT USE something like a chisel that could gouge the wood.
  • Wire brush the live edge surfaces with a small wire brush.
  • Flatten planks by running them through a wide belt sander.
  • Prepare a sealer mixture of Mira-Poxy and xylene that is 1:1:1. Mix the Mira-Poxy A and B first and then, when clear, add xylene.
  • Brush on all live edge surfaces. Apply a second coat after about 30 minutes in areas that are dull (where the sealer absorbed). Repeat if necessary.
  • Allow 24 hours for cure.


  • Work with good lighting.
  • Work in a clean, dust-free area and minimize air movement as much as you can.
  • Work on a level surface.
  • Work space should be kept at a temperature between 60 and 80℉ for the duration of the project including during the curing process.
  • We recommend using a melamine surfaced particle board for the “tray” or mold. A dark color would make it easier to detect bubbles in the Mira-Poxy.
  • Use “rope” or “cord” caulk on surfaces of the plank near the live edge. Extend up the sides of the plank.
  • Make “end plates” that will either be clamped or nailed to the ends of the live edge planks to dam up the epoxy.
  • Use paste wax to coat the bottom tray board and end plates, ensuring easy removal of the planks when finished.
  • Firmly attach planks to tray, pressing down for smaller pieces, screw or nail (upside down) for larger planks.
  • Attach end plates.


Application Bulletin
  • Always wear gloves and prevent epoxy mixture–ESPECIALLY PART B–from contacting your skin. You may develop a sensitivity similar to poison ivy if you are over-exposed.
  • Keep all containers closed except when dispensing.
  • Heat Part A by using a hair dryer on high pointed at the container inside a bucket or cardboard box for 10-15 minutes. This reduces the viscosity of the mixture, aiding mixing and migration of bubbles to the surface after applying.
  • Part B will naturally amber with age with exposure to moisture in the air and when exposed to light. Store Part B in a dark, dry place and keep the container closed at all times except when dispensing.
  • Mix Part A and B together in a clean container at a 1:1 ratio by volume.
  • Add Part B first, followed by Part A.
  • Stir gently, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container frequently.
  • Stirring too vigorously will introduce air that can cause bubbles in the dried coating.
  • As you stir you will notice that the mixture will turn cloudy with a swirly, pearlescent appearance.
  • Over 3 – 5 minutes, the mixture will clarify.
  • Pour mixture into a fresh container and stir again for 1-2 minutes. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT STEP! Pouring into a fresh container prevents improperly mixed material that clings to the sides of the original container from contaminating the application).
  • Mix only enough material that can be applied in 30 minutes.


  • Pour ¼” – ⅜” thick layers at a time. (If you try to pour too thick of a layer at one time, the heat generated by the reaction will cause the mixture to “set” before air bubbles can escape. This also allows items to be placed in the middle layers to give a 3D effect.)
  • For Each Layer:
    • 5 Minutes after application and again 15 minutes and 30 minutes after, wave a heat gun over the layer to pop bubbles.
      • NOTE: You may experience bubbles in the first layer over the tray. If that occurs use a wire or toothpick to draw these bubbles to the surface in the first half hour of cure. Subsequent layers will not exhibit this behavior.
    • Allow each layer to cure for 8-10 hours before application of a new layer.
    • Repeat layers until level with the top of the planks.
  • After 12-24 hours after the application of the final layer, remove from the tray and remove end plates.
  • Use a putty knife/butter knife to remove the majority of the rope caulk.
  • Use wire wheel to remove remaining rope caulk.
  • At this point, you may decide to run the planks through the wide belt sander again to flatten everything.


  • Prepare a sealer mixture of Mira-Poxy and xylene that is 1:1:1. Mix Part A and Part B first and then, when clear, add xylene. This mixture will be usable for 8 hours.
  • Brush a flood coat onto the plank faces. Repeat (probably twice) as material soaks in.
  • Use a disposable pipette or eye dropper to drip sealer mixture into porous areas. Monitor and add as necessary over 8 hours.
  • Do NOT use heat gun on sealer.
  • Do NOT build up too thick of a layer of sealer (solvent will be trapped in the layer, possibly causing future issues with hardness and clarity).
  • Do NOT sand sealer layers
  • Allow to cure for 24 hours.


  • Use blue tape to form a ¼” dam around the perimeter of the piece to prevent the coating from flowing over the side of the piece.
  • Apply a layer of 1:1 Mira-Poxy about ⅛” thick over entire surface.
  • Use heat gun in the same manner as used in the fill layers.
  • After 12 hours, remove tape. (Full hardness takes two weeks. Allow 48 hours or more in warm temperatures before polishing).
  • After 48 hours (or more), smooth and polish edges, or smooth edges, sand with 600 grit sandpaper, and apply 6FPU132i Sirca Clear Acrylic Sealer and 6LPU001 Sirca Clear Wet Look Acrylic Sealer.
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