What Paint Sheen Should I Use in My Bathroom?

As is usually the case with paint and coatings, there’s no “one-size-fits-all” answer. Before recommending a finish paint and sheen for any room, there are questions that must be asked. In this case, we’re dealing with a bathroom, so the first question is this: Is it a half bath or a full bath? If there’s a shower or tub present, the recommendation is potentially different than if there isn’t.

Other questions we’d ask would concern any problem areas or situations that have manifested over the years.

  • Are mold and mildew a routine issue?
  • Is the current paint in good condition, or are there areas where it’s peeling?
  • And on and on….

It’s always good to talk to someone personally to get a recommendation that fits your space and your needs. However, with that said, we can make some generic recommendations.

So What Sheen is Best?

For the most part, the answer hinges on the product used more so than the sheen itself. Aura Bath and Spa from Benjamin Moore is our favorite bathroom paint. It’s designed for high humidity environments, is mildew resistant, and hides and covers extremely well. Best of all, it does all of that in a matte finish.

That means you can finally have a bathroom that fits in with the rest of your home! Before Bath and Spa, we were forced to choose shinier paints for our bathrooms and we just had to tolerate the look. Now, there’s an option to get a matte look and still get excellent durability.

If you don’t want to use Aura Bath and Spa, we’d most generally recommend a satin sheen. RepcoLite’s Hallmark line offers mildew resistance and great washability. 

If you have a bathroom fan that moves the moisture out of the room quickly, or if the tub/shower doesn’t get a lot of use, Hallmark Eggshell would also be an option to consider.

If it’s only a half bath, your options are wide open when it comes to sheen.

Always Talk It Over!

In the end, we love to recommend Aura Bath and Spa. In our experience, it’s the perfect bathroom paint and eliminates most of the issues that you’ll ever run into when painting that room. But always call, chat on our website, or stop in at any Repcolite, Port City Paints, or Snyder Paints and talk through your exact situation before buying your paint! 

Benjamin Moore’s New Color Portfolio App Is Like Having the Paint Store in Your Hand!

One of the positives we’ve seen in the midst of this pandemic scare is the amazing nature of technology. As a parent, I’ve done my fair share of griping about the silliness of TikTok videos or YouTube snippets that my kids incessantly play for me. And I’ve stood in the dining room, feeling like my grandfather with my thumbs looped through my (figurative) suspenders as I recounted to the them all the reasons they need to “check out” from technology and read a book or feel outdoor air. But then this pandemic and the subsequent “self-isolation” hits and out of the blue we suddenly find that the world is literally at our fingertips thanks to technology.

Businesses and organizations in West Michigan and around the world have opened up the treasure chest and we find ourselves able to watch symphonies, tour the world, listen to story time at Fredrik Meijer Garden and Sculpture Park all without leaving our homes. We can view art from art museums, explore NASA’s collection of photos, and adventure through our nation’s national parks. All on our phones and iPads and laptops. It’s amazing! And thank goodness it’s there!

Benjamin Moore Colors go Digital!

Well, an interesting paint tool that came out a few months ago from Benjamin Moore does the same kind of thing by putting most of the Benjamin Moore color options in your hands! You can scroll through their colors and actually view them in digital fan decks. Better yet, you can snap a picture of a room in your home and then digitally apply any of the Benjamin Moore colors to your walls to get a sneak peak at how a given color might look!

If you find yourself stuck at home, self-quarantining, maybe download the app and start planing out your next paint project! It’s simple to use, remarkably accurate, and best of all, it’s free! Check out the links for Android and iOS down below. And also, check out the video!

And if you do find yourself at home and want to start a paint project, don’t forget that RepcoLite’s FREE Next Day Delivery Service goes perfectly with Benjamin Moore’s Color Portfolio App! Pick out your paint colors, place your order, and the next day, your paint and supplies are thoroughly disinfected and delivered to your doorstep! Click here for more informationNow Announcing Free Deliveries!, or click the “Ask us a Question” button on the right side of the page!

 

Celebrating the Grand Opening of the New RepcoLite Paints on Broadmoor

We’re excited to officially announce the Grand Opening of the RepcoLite Paints on Broadmoor! Sure, it’s been open a while, but now we’re officially celebrating! We’ll be raffling off a number of GREAT prizes at the Broadmoor store AND we’ll be donating a portion of our sales from all RepcoLite and Port City Paints stores from the week of May 6-11 to the Children’s Healing Center in Grand Rapids! 

The Details

  • The Grand Opening Celebration runs from May 6-11
  • To enter to win prizes, you MUST go to the Broadmoor location
  • To help us raise money for the Children’s Healing Center, just make a purchase at ANY RepcoLite or Port City Paints from May 6-11

The Prizes at Broadmoor

Stop out all week long at the new RepcoLite on 2840 Broadmoor Ave and register to win some great prize packages! Here’s what you could win:

  • A Graco 395 Professional Paint Sprayer
  • 25 Gallons of ANY RepcoLite or Benjamin Moore Paint
  • 1 of 4 Room Repaint Packages including tools and 2 gallons of RepcoLite or Benjamin Moore Paint
  • 1 of 2 Packages of 10 gallons of your choice of Axalta Wood Finish
  • A Yeti Cooler from Benjamin Moore
  • A Telescoping Step Ladder
  • Assorted Polo Shirts and T-Shirts

Just stop out at the new store and sign up to win!

The Donation to the Children’s Healing Center

On top of the fun and prizes we’ll have at the Broadmoor location, a portion of every purchase made at any RepcoLite or Port City Paints store will be donated to the Children’s Healing Center in Grand Rapids. They are an amazing non-profit whose mission is to provide kids with weak immune systems a safe place to play and socialize with other kids. It’s incredible that we have organizations like this in our area and RepcoLite is excited to lend our support! Our goal is to donate enough money to sponsor a family for an entire year! With your help, we can do that!

If you need paint, stop out May 6-11 at ANY RepcoLite or Port City Paints store! Every purchase will help. And if you don’t need paint, please donate via the fundraiser we created on Facebook.

 

 

Making New Wood Look Old

If you spend any time at all on Pinterest, you’ve definitely seen any number of home projects involving reclaimed wood. We see old barn wood boards being used as accent walls and headboards, backsplashes and even light fixtures. It’s everywhere. And there’s good reason! It’s a beautiful look that works in almost any setting. Even a sleek, modern kitchen can benefit from the gray, natural tones and textures of a barn wood light fixture.

Unfortunately, finding old, weathered wood (at a decent price) isn’t always easy. But the good news is you can make your own! And it’s an incredibly fun project!

Not Just Color!

If you look at a piece of authentic barn wood that’s naturally aged outside, you’ll notice a couple of things: the wood usually has a gray, weathered color and the wood has a weathered texture. When aging wood–if you truly want an authentic barn wood look–this physical texture is integral. You can certainly gray or “age” any piece of smooth, pristine wood. But generally, it just ends up looking like a new board that’s been stained. It’s the physical distressing of the wood that gives it character.

So we recommend starting with a quick distressing of the wood. It’s not a labor intensive process and it can be a lot of fun. You can do everything from putting a wire wheel on a drill or grinder to simply sticking with hand tools. It’s up to you. We found that for our tastes, a simple stiff-bristled wire brush was ideal. We worked on pine planks and found that by running the wire brush over the wood in the direction of the grain, we very quickly were able to produce a worn and weathered look.

A SIMPLE TIP:

  • Use a clamp to secure the board to your work bench. Then you can put both hands on the brush and get a little more leverage. And, even if the clamp leaves a dent in the wood, it’s no big deal! You’re distressing it anyway.

Once we wire brushed the wood, we dinged it up in a number of different ways. Hit it with a hammer, pounded the threads of a bolt into the grain, drove a few nails and pulled them out, and finally poked a few holes to look like worm holes.

Get creative. There are no rules here! Well. That’s not true. There is one rule: Know When To Quit! This is so important. When the wood looks good, quit. Sometimes we keep going thinking that we will make it look older and older with all our different distressing methods. However, what actually happens is that the piece begins to look fake! So quit when you’re ahead.

Aging Solution 1: Stain

Once you’ve got the wood distressed, it’s time to add color and give it that “I’ve-been-out-in-the-weather-for-50-years” look! And there are a number of different ways to do this. The first we’ll look at is to use regular wood stain. We’ve got a formula for a darker and a lighter “weathered gray”. It’s something that looked good on the pine we were staining and it gave the wood a bit of that gray, washed out look. It’s simply a typical wood stain that you brush or rag onto the wood and then  rag off, depending on the color you want to achieve.

It’s definitely a bit of a trial and error process, so use some scrap pieces of wood and sample away! If you are coming to a RepcoLite for the stain, bring some samples of the wood you’ll be working on and we can mix up your quart, sample the wood, and adjust the color if necessary! And always remember to sample the stain if you’re going to switch to another type of wood. A stain that looks one way on one species of wood can look entirely different on another!

When you’re all done and the wood has dried (unless you’re going to add paint or other effects), we recommend top coating with a polyurethane. The number of coats and the finish you choose depends on the overall look you want to achieve.

BENEFITS OF THIS METHOD: 

  • A generally even color on all planks
  • Consistent color on planks even if one is stained 4 days before another
  • No waiting! You get your color instantly and you don’t have to wait several days until your solution (see below) is ready.

DOWNSIDE TO USING THIS METHOD:

  • A generally even color on all planks (some of the natural variations of weathered wood isn’t present)
  • The harder grain in the wood resists the stain to some extent and you get more contrast in the finished product.

Aging Solution 2: Vinegar and Steel Wool

The second aging method is popular all over the internet: steel wool and vinegar. We spent some time testing this method and here’s what we found works best (and will hopefully help you avoid some of the poor results other people have had). First thing, is to start with #0000 steel wool. Wash it with dish soap to remove any oils that might slow down the chemical reaction when you mix it with the vinegar. After you’ve cleaned it and wrung the water out of it, cut it up into smaller pieces and toss them in a container. Then half-fill (or so) the container with vinegar. We used white distilled vinegar, but apple cider vinegar seems to work as well (though possibly producing slightly different color results).

Anyway, once you’ve filled the container with steel wool and vinegar, put the lid on it (after popping some holes in the lid so gasses can escape), and let it sit for a day, two days, three days, or more. The longer it sits the stronger it becomes.

When you’re ready to try the process, brew a cup of strong tea (8-10 bags of cheap tea in a cup). Take the tea and brush it onto your distressed wood. You can let it dry (which seems to produce darker end results), or you can brush the vinegar/steel wool solution over the wet tea. Either way works–the important thing to understand is that the tea and the vinegar solution must be applied in different steps! Once you’ve done that, you will not have immediate results. Over the next 5-20 minutes, the wood will dramatically age right before your eyes!

One quick note about the tea: It’s not mentioned or recommended in every post about this project, but we found that it was essential if you really want a darker, weathered gray end product. The people who’ve tried the process online and didn’t like the results generally used ONLY the vinegar and steel wool solution. That certainly works, but it’s not as dark or rich as they were hoping. Here’s why: The vinegar and steel wool mixture reacts with tannins in the wood. However, by adding the tea you infuse the wood with even more tannins.

SOME TIPS

  • Be sure to strain your vinegar and steel wool mixture by running it through a coffee filter or a paint strainer to remove the small pieces of steel wool
  • Be sure to TEST, TEST, TEST! Try different methods, mix the tea stronger and weaker. Brush it on and let it dry. Apply the vinegar solution immediately. Try different methods until you produce results you like!

BENEFITS OF THIS METHOD: 

  • Very random, very natural aging results
  • Looks incredibly authentic

DOWNSIDE TO USING THIS METHOD:

  • Slower process because of the wait time necessary for the solution to become ready
  • Much more difficult to produce even and consistent results. The longer the mix sits, the darker it becomes when you use it.

The Comparison

Here’s a look at what we came up with using both methods side by side. The stain is on the right, the vinegar/steel wool and tea is on the left. Each side has it’s pros and cons. And largely, it depends on personal preference and what look you’re going for.

Just the Beginning, Young Grasshopper…

Try this project! Try it! We know that if you do, it will get your creative juices flowing. Once you see brand new, pristine boards become old and weathered, you’ll be thinking of ways to use them in your home. Or, if you’re like us, you’ll be brainstorming about other things you can do: you’ll be brushing paint on and sanding it off to create that look of reclaimed wood. Or maybe you’ll come up with something entirely different. We found that using a putty knife to apply simple spackling into all the grooves and the scraping most of it off produced the look of boards holding tenaciously to old layers of white paint. (We’ll cover this in a future post because it turned out so well!) Whatever you do, have fun! It’s a great project and it’s tough to screw it up. We’d love to see what you come up with. Post some pictures of your projects in the comments!

Create a Live Edge River Table with Mira-Poxy

Tools

  • Butter Knife
  • Small Wire Brush
  • Hair Dryer
  • Heat Gun
  • Small Flexible Scraper
  • Level
  • Drill and Wire Wheel

Supplies

  • Epoxy
  • Mixing Cups (10)
  • Stir Sticks
  • Pipettes or disposable eye droppers
  • Xylene
  • Brushes
  • Gloves
  • Blue Tape
  • Paste Wax
  • Rags


Project Guide

PREPARE THE PLANKS

  • Remove bark with a non-serrated butter knife, palette knife, etc. DO NOT USE something like a chisel that could gouge the wood.
  • Wire brush the live edge surfaces with a small wire brush.
  • Flatten planks by running them through a wide belt sander.
  • Prepare a sealer mixture of Mira-Poxy and xylene that is 1:1:1. Mix the Mira-Poxy A and B first and then, when clear, add xylene.
  • Brush on all live edge surfaces. Apply a second coat after about 30 minutes in areas that are dull (where the sealer absorbed). Repeat if necessary.
  • Allow 24 hours for cure.

PREPARE THE WORK AREA

  • Work with good lighting.
  • Work in a clean, dust-free area and minimize air movement as much as you can.
  • Work on a level surface.
  • Work space should be kept at a temperature between 60 and 80℉ for the duration of the project including during the curing process.
  • We recommend using a melamine surfaced particle board for the “tray” or mold. A dark color would make it easier to detect bubbles in the Mira-Poxy.
  • Use “rope” or “cord” caulk on surfaces of the plank near the live edge. Extend up the sides of the plank.
  • Make “end plates” that will either be clamped or nailed to the ends of the live edge planks to dam up the epoxy.
  • Use paste wax to coat the bottom tray board and end plates, ensuring easy removal of the planks when finished.
  • Firmly attach planks to tray, pressing down for smaller pieces, screw or nail (upside down) for larger planks.
  • Attach end plates.

DETAILED EPOXY MIXING INSTRUCTIONS

Application Bulletin
  • Always wear gloves and prevent epoxy mixture–ESPECIALLY PART B–from contacting your skin. You may develop a sensitivity similar to poison ivy if you are over-exposed.
  • Keep all containers closed except when dispensing.
  • Heat Part A by using a hair dryer on high pointed at the container inside a bucket or cardboard box for 10-15 minutes. This reduces the viscosity of the mixture, aiding mixing and migration of bubbles to the surface after applying.
  • Part B will naturally amber with age with exposure to moisture in the air and when exposed to light. Store Part B in a dark, dry place and keep the container closed at all times except when dispensing.
  • Mix Part A and B together in a clean container at a 1:1 ratio by volume.
  • Add Part B first, followed by Part A.
  • Stir gently, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container frequently.
  • Stirring too vigorously will introduce air that can cause bubbles in the dried coating.
  • As you stir you will notice that the mixture will turn cloudy with a swirly, pearlescent appearance.
  • Over 3 – 5 minutes, the mixture will clarify.
  • Pour mixture into a fresh container and stir again for 1-2 minutes. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT STEP! Pouring into a fresh container prevents improperly mixed material that clings to the sides of the original container from contaminating the application).
  • Mix only enough material that can be applied in 30 minutes.

LAYERS OF EPOXY

  • Pour ¼” – ⅜” thick layers at a time. (If you try to pour too thick of a layer at one time, the heat generated by the reaction will cause the mixture to “set” before air bubbles can escape. This also allows items to be placed in the middle layers to give a 3D effect.)
  • For Each Layer:
    • 5 Minutes after application and again 15 minutes and 30 minutes after, wave a heat gun over the layer to pop bubbles.
      • NOTE: You may experience bubbles in the first layer over the tray. If that occurs use a wire or toothpick to draw these bubbles to the surface in the first half hour of cure. Subsequent layers will not exhibit this behavior.
    • Allow each layer to cure for 8-10 hours before application of a new layer.
    • Repeat layers until level with the top of the planks.
  • After 12-24 hours after the application of the final layer, remove from the tray and remove end plates.
  • Use a putty knife/butter knife to remove the majority of the rope caulk.
  • Use wire wheel to remove remaining rope caulk.
  • At this point, you may decide to run the planks through the wide belt sander again to flatten everything.

FINISHING

  • Prepare a sealer mixture of Mira-Poxy and xylene that is 1:1:1. Mix Part A and Part B first and then, when clear, add xylene. This mixture will be usable for 8 hours.
  • Brush a flood coat onto the plank faces. Repeat (probably twice) as material soaks in.
  • Use a disposable pipette or eye dropper to drip sealer mixture into porous areas. Monitor and add as necessary over 8 hours.
  • Do NOT use heat gun on sealer.
  • Do NOT build up too thick of a layer of sealer (solvent will be trapped in the layer, possibly causing future issues with hardness and clarity).
  • Do NOT sand sealer layers
  • Allow to cure for 24 hours.

FINAL FILL COAT

  • Use blue tape to form a ¼” dam around the perimeter of the piece to prevent the coating from flowing over the side of the piece.
  • Apply a layer of 1:1 Mira-Poxy about ⅛” thick over entire surface.
  • Use heat gun in the same manner as used in the fill layers.
  • After 12 hours, remove tape. (Full hardness takes two weeks. Allow 48 hours or more in warm temperatures before polishing).
  • After 48 hours (or more), smooth and polish edges, or smooth edges, sand with 600 grit sandpaper, and apply 6FPU132i Sirca Clear Acrylic Sealer and 6LPU001 Sirca Clear Wet Look Acrylic Sealer.

Win the Ultimate Family Room Upgrade for Christmas 2018!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

RepcoLite Paints, Benjamin Moore, and Out of the Box Games have teamed up to give you a chance to win and incredible prize package this Christmas! One winner will receive:

  • $250 to RepcoLite to get your family room spruced up and looking great!
  • Over $500 in Games and Puzzles from RepcoLite and Benjamin Moore!
  • A Free Escape Room Experience For Up to 6 People from Out of the Box Games!

All in all, it’s a prize worth over $900! Enter below and be sure to tune in EVERY Saturday at 8 AM on WOOD RADIO and listen for the secret CODE WORD that will give you extra chances to win each week!

Contest begins at 8 AM on December 1 and ends at 12 AM on December 22. Winner will be announced on the December 22 Saturday Morning airing of the RepcoLite Home Improvement Show!